Circuit Schematic learn

Pushbutton activated, Very simple circuitry

This device is a simple timer, allowing to keep on the headlights of your vehicle for about 1min. and 30sec., e.g. when accessing some dark place, without the necessity of coming back to switch-off the lights. Pushing on P1 allows C1 charging to full 12V battery supply. Therefore Q1 is driven hard-on, driving in turn Q2 and its Relay load. The headlights are thus activated by means of the Relay contact wired in parallel to the vehicles headlights switch. RL1 remains activated until C1 is almost fully discharged, i.e. When its voltage falls below about 0.7V. The timing delay of the circuit depends by C1 and R1 values and was set to about 1min. and 30sec.

In practice, due to electrolytic capacitors wide tolerance value, this delay will vary from about 1min. and 30sec. to 1min. and 50sec. An interesting variation is to use the inside lamp as a command source for the timer. In this way, when the door is opened C1 is charged, but it will start to discharge only when the door will be closed, substituting pushbutton operation. To enable the circuit acting in this way, simply connect the cathode of a 1N4002 diode to R1-C1 junction and the anode to the "live" lead of the inside lamp. This lead can be singled-out using a voltmeter, as it is the lead where a 12V voltage can be measured in respect to the vehicle frame when the lamp is on.

Circuit diagram:

Car Headlights Timer Circuit Diagram

Parts:

R1 = 4.7K - 1/4W Resistor
R2 = 1K - 1/4W Resistors
R3 = 1K - 1/4W Resistors
C1 = 100µF - 25V Electrolytic Capacitor (See Notes)
D1 = 1N4002 - 100V 1A Diode
Q1 = BC547 - 45V 100mA NPN Transistor
Q2 = BC327 - 45V 800mA PNP Transistor
P1 = SPST Pushbutton
RL1 = Relay with SPDT 10A min. switch
Coil Voltage 12V. Coil resistance 150-600 Ohms

Notes:

• The Relay contact must be rated at 10A or more.
• Time-delays obtained trying different tolerance electrolytic capacitors for C1:
• 100µF = 130" to 150"
• 47µF = 045" to 105"
• 220µF = 315" to 415"

Source : www.extremecircuits.net

Such jobs as jewel cutting and polishing require the workers to switch on/ off two electrical appliances one after another repeatedly for two different services on the same workpiece. This is cumbersome as they need to fully concentrate on delicate handwork on precious jewels. Switching in such situations cannot be done by hand, and doing it by foot using ordinary switches is too tedious. This is mainly because of the difficulty in sensing and controlling the switch position by foot. Ordinary pushbutton switches make or break a contact momentarily, and they cannot hold the keypress status. You need a bistable multivibrator with two independent trigger inputs to solve this problem.

Here’s a smart foot switch based on dual negative-edge triggered master slave JK flip-flop IC 74LS76 (IC1). J1 and J2 inputs are conneted to 5V through resistors R2 and R5 (each 10k), respectively.K1 and K2 inputs are grounded. Preset pins 2 and 7 are shorted and connected to 5V via resistor R7 (10k). Push-to-on switch S3 connected to the preset inputs is also grounded. Clock and clear inputs of the two flip-flops are cross-connected, i.e. CLK1 (pin 1) is conneted to CLR2 (pin 8) and CLR1 (pin 3) is connected to CLK2 ( pin 6). Clock input pins 1 and 6 are pulled up high through resistors R1 and R4 (each 4.7k), respectively.

Circuit Diagram:

Smrat tFoot Switch Circuit diagram

Push-to-on switches S1 and S2 are connected between clock and ground of the flip-flops. Switch S1 activates device 1, while switch S2 activates device 2. Switch S3 activates both device 1 and device 2 simultaneously. Device status is indicated by LED1 and LED2. Glowing of LED1 and LED2 indicates that device 1 and device 2, respectively, are in on condition. The LEDs are connected from +5V to Q1 (pin 14) and Q2 (pin 10) of IC1 through resistors R3 and R6, respectively.

Initially when the power supply is switched on, Q1 and Q2 outputs of the JK flip-flops are at low level (logic 0). When switch S1 is pressed for the first time, the high level (logic 1) present at J1 input is transferred to Q1 output on the trailing edge of clock (CLK1). The high level (logic 1) at Q1 activates relay RL1 through pin 16 of IC ULN2003 (IC2), turning on device 1 via its normally-opened (N/O) contacts. Clock CLK1 of flip-flop IC1(A) is also connected to clear input CLR2 of flip-flop IC1(B) so as to clear it asynchronously. Switch debounces don’t affect the circuit as the same J1 state is being transferred to Q1 output on succeeding trailing edges. At the same time, device 2 is switched off.

When switch S2 is pressed, flip-flop IC1(A) gets cleared via CLR1 and the high state of J2 input of flip-flop IC1(B) is transferred to its Q2 output on the trailing edge of clock (CLK2). This high level (logic1) activates relay RL2 through pin 15 of IC2, turning on device 2 via its N/O contacts. At the same time, device 1 is switched off.

Now if you want to turn on both the devices simultaniously, press switch S3 momentarily. Switch S3 provides ground to preset inputs PRE1 and PRE2 of flipflops IC1(A) and IC1(B), making their Q1 and Q2 outputs high, which energises both the relays turning on the two devices. LEDs glow to indicate that both the devices are ‘on.’

Place all the three switches (S1 through S3) where you can easily press them by foot when required. The LEDs can also be mounted at a convenient location to know whether the devices are turned on.

Author : JAYAN A.R. Copyright : Electronics For You Mach 2004

Firstly, Id like to stress that the intended use of this circuit is only one of many possible applications. Apart from the obvious usage as a headphone amplifier, the circuit can be used for a range of applications where a wide bandwidth low power amplifier is needed. Some of the options include ...

• Reverb drive amplifier - ideal for low and medium impedance reverb tanks
• High current line driver - suitable for very long balanced lines
• Low power speaker amplifier - better performance than small integrated amps
• ... and of course, a headphone amp.

In short, the amp can be used anywhere that you need an opamp with more output current than normally available. Since most are rated for around ±20-50mA, general purpose opamps are not suitable for driving long cables or anywhere else that a relatively high output current is needed.

As a headphone amplifier, this design is very similar to others on the ESP site, but the main difference is that this one (and P70) has been built and fully tested. The design is fairly standard, and every variation was checked out before arriving at the final circuit. A photo of the prototype is shown below, and at only 64 x 38mm (2.5 x 1.5 inches) it is very small - naturally, the heatsink is not included in the dimensions.

The amplifier is capable of delivering around 1.5W into 8 ohm headphones, and 2.2W into 32 ohms - this is vastly more than will ever be needed in practice. The use of a 120 Ohm output resistor is recommended, as this is supposed to be the standard source impedance for headphones. Unfortunately, many users have found that their phones perform better when driven from a low impedance source.


The circuit is based on an opamp, with its output current boosted by a pair of transistors. Distortion is well below my measurement threshold at all levels below clipping into any impedance. Noise is virtually non-existent - even with a compression driver held to my ear, I could barely hear any, and I couldnt hear any with headphones.

WARNING
Headphones are rated in dB SPL at 1mW, and this amplifier (like many other similar headphone amps) is capable of producing extreme SPLs. The levels obtainable are sufficient to cause almost instantaneous permanent hearing damage! Never operate the amp at very high levels, and never switch the amplifier on with signal while wearing you headphones.

Always start with the volume control at minimum, and gradually increase the level until it is comfortable, but not too loud. Because of the very low distortion, it is easy to increase the level too far without noticing. Your ears are precious - safeguard them at all times.

Note the warning above - this is serious. Most headphones are capable of at least 94dB SPL at 1 mW, with some as high as 107dB SPL. Even 10mW is enough to create sound levels capable of causing hearing damage, so you must be very careful to avoid damaging levels.

Continuous dB SPL	Maximum Exposure Time
85	8 hours
88	4 hours
91	2 hours
94	1 hour
97	30 minutes
100	15 minutes
103	7.5 minutes
106	< 4 minutes
109	< 2minutes
112	~ 1 minute
115	~ 30 seconds

Table 1 - Maximum Exposure to SPL
Note that the exposure time is for any 24 hour period, and is halved for each 3dB SPL above 85dB. The above shows the accepted standards for recommended permissible exposure time for continuous time weighted average noise, according to NIOSH (National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health) and CDC (Centers for Disease Control). Although these standards are US based, they apply pretty much equally in most countries - hearing loss does not respect national boundaries.

Description

The amplifier itself is fairly conventional, and is very similar to another shown on this site (see Project 24). This amplifier does not include the active volume control, because in general it is far easier to get a good log pot (or simply fake the pots law as described in Project 01). Likewise, it does not include the cross-feed described in Project 109. If this is desired, it is very easy to implement on a small piece of tag board, or even sky hook the few components off the bypass switch. Full details of how to do this will be included in the construction guide when PCBs are available.

The output transistors are biased using only resistors, rather than constant current sources. Extensive testing showed that using current sources made no discernible difference to performance, but increased the complexity and PCB size. Using separate caps for each biasing diode does make a difference though - and although it is relatively minor, the use of the two caps is justified IMHO.

The bias diodes should be 1N4148 or similar - power diodes are not recommended, as their forward voltage is too low. This may result in distortion around the crossover region, where one transistor turns off and the other on. As shown, crossover distortion is absolutely unmeasurable with the equipment I have available.


Above is the schematic of one channel. Resistors and caps use the suffix R for the right channel. The second half of the dual opamp powers the right channel. Note that the volume control shown is optional, and is not on the PCB. If needed, it may be mounted in a convenient location and the output connected to the inputs of the board as shown. D1 and D2 (L and R) are 1N4148 or similar.

One of the reasons the amp is so quiet is that the entire board runs from a regulated supply, so hum (in particular) is eliminated. Although an unregulated supply can be used, this is not recommended. The supply should be separate from that used for your preamp, because of the relatively high current drawn by the amplifier (at least with low impedance phones). A P05 preamp supply can be used, and will ensure optimum performance.

The prototype amplifier has flat frequency response from 10Hz to over 100kHz. Distortion is below my measurement threshold with any level or load impedance, and output impedance is almost immeasurably low. Your headphones may be designed to operate from a 120Ω source impedance (many are), so this may be added if it improves sound quality. Adding any series resistance will reduce the available power, but it is already far greater than you can use. Without series resistance, the minimum power into various load impedances is given below (based on ±15V supplies).

Impedance	Power (Direct)	120 Ohm Feed
8 Ohms	1.5 W	35 mW
32 Ohms	2.2 W	99 mW
65 Ohms	1.1 W	136 mW
120 Ohms	595 mW	149 mW
300 Ohms	238 mW	121 mW
600 Ohms	119 mW	82 mW

Table 2 - Output Power Vs. Impedance

This is not especially comprehensive, but will cover the majority of headphones in common use. In all cases, the available power is more than needed ... not so you can damage your hearing, but to allow adequate headroom for transients.

Construction

While it may be possible to build it using Veroboard or similar, there is a high risk that it will oscillate because of the very wide bandwidth of the amplifier. A capacitor may be added in parallel with R4 (L and R) to reduce the bandwidth if stability problems are encountered. Although I used an NE5532 opamp for the prototype, the circuit will also work with a TL072, but at reduced power. You may also substitute an OPA2134 or your favorite device, taking note of the following ...
The standard pinout for a dual opamp is shown on the left. If the opamps are installed backwards, they will almost certainly fail, so be careful.

The suggested NE5532 opamp was used for the prototype, and performance is exemplary. Devices such as the TL072 will be quite satisfactory for most work, but if you prefer to use ultra low noise or wide bandwidth devices, that choice is yours.

Construction is fairly critical. Because of the wide bandwidth of the NE5532 and many other audio grade opamps, the amplifier may oscillate (the prototype initially had an oscillation at almost 500kHz), so care is needed to ensure there is adequate separation between inputs and outputs. Even a small capacitive coupling between the two may be enough to cause problems.

As shown in the photo, this amplifier needs a heatsink. While it can operate without one at low power using high impedance headphones, you need to plan for all possibilities (after all, you may purchase low impedance phones sometime in the future). The heatsink does not need to be massive, and the one shown above is fine for normal listening levels. An aluminium bracket may be used to attach to the chassis - I recommend 3mm material. Note that the heatsink should always be earthed (grounded).

The output transistors must be insulated from the heatsink. Sil-Pads™ are quite suitable because of the relatively low dissipation, but greased mica or Kapton can be used if you prefer. If you use the suggested 3mm aluminium, you can drill and tap threads into the heatsink, removing the need for nuts.

Testing

Connect to a suitable power supply - remember that the supply earth (ground) must be connected! When powering up for the first time, use 56 ohm "safety" resistors in series with each supply to limit the current in case you have made a mistake in the wiring. These will reduce the supply voltage considerably because of the bias current of the output transistors.

If the voltage at the amplifier supply pins is greater than ±6V and the output voltage is close to zero, then the amplifier is probably working fine. If you have an oscilloscope, check for oscillation at the outputs ... at all volume control settings. Do this without connecting your headphones - if the amp oscillates, it may damage them.

Once you are sure that all is well, you may remove the safety resistors and permanently wire the amplifier into your chassis.